This article is for those curious about the climb up to the gorgeous, rocky peak on the north side of Rock Canyon. This day hike takes you up to just under 8,000 feet where you can see all around Utah Valley. If this is your first time climbing a mountain, you’ve chosen the right spot.
Most healthy individuals can make it up this intermediate hike with the right preparation. If this is one of your first hikes in the area, consider something shorter to get used to the elevation and get in the right shape. A couple of good suggestions would be Y-Mountain and Stewart Falls. Once hikes like those are easier for you, a day trip up Squaw Peak should be fine, unless advised against by a doctor. You should pay attention to your doctor and your body. Common sense, right?
Now, while I’m aware the traditional name of the peak can and has sparked controversy, I’ve left the title of “Squaw” until local leadership comes up with a better name that people will call it in the future. I’m all about change.
Now, the details you’re looking for.
Location
The canyon itself is located east of the Provo Temple (LDS), which is probably the easiest landmark to spot. From the freeway, you can take the University Parkway exit and travel east up the road several miles until it ends next to the Provo LDS Missionary Training Center. From there, turn left on 900 east and then a right up to the north side of the temple where you’ll hit a curve in the road that looks like a weird intersection above 2300 North and 1450 East. The entrance to the canyon is on the east side of that intersection. There will be parking by a pavilion to the south and all the way up to the trailhead.
The Rock Canyon Portion
The trail up Rock Canyon starts out paved and then forks after a few hundred feet, one side still paved and the other side graveled. Pick a fork and keep heading east up the canyon. The two forks will combine again. After .4 miles or so, the trail becomes rocky and you’ll pass through Kitchen Gate next to a popular climbing wall called the Kitchen. Watch for falling climbers.
As you head up this road, you might notice water to your left if spring runoff is happening and the drought is over. Hopefully soon!
The next thing to look for is an ever-running water fountain that my friends and I affectionately call the fountain of youth. Be warned, however. Wasps love the fountain more than people do. Rumor has it they’re immortal as long as they drink from the water.
Follow the hopefully-not-dry creek as you climb the trail for the next mile. You’ll cross the creek five times over some convenient foot bridges. After the fifth, keep your eye out for the fork. It will be the first on your left, somehow marked by the forest service, and there’s a rock where someone etched in a sign pointing the way up to good ‘ol Squaw Peak.
The Ascent
First thing to keep in mind in this next part is that there are no switchbacks. The trail climbs and then keeps climbing, giving you no real bearing on distance. A natural prankster, on my way back down the mountain, I love telling people in this part that they’re getting close. Don’t be like me…but it is hilarious. You’re in for about 1,000 feet of leg-burn on a nicely worn trail. You should be fine, just tell your thighs and glutes that they needed the exercise. Also, by 1,000 feet I mean elevation, not distance.
One trick, when you’re out of breath, is to tell the group you want a picture. Try not to sit too much. Sitting makes the trip longer and it relaxes your muscles in a way that can make the climbing hurt more when you start up again. But as always, listen to your body. You’ll finish this part at over 7,000 feet.
You may see deer, cats, squirrels, and other wildlife in this part of the trail, but I wouldn’t get my hopes up. Squaw Peak is a very popular hike and lots of people making noise scares away the animals. However, that also helps keep the bears and mountain lions away. I doubt you were hiking to see those.
A Break and then One More Climb
For those hiking for the pictures, save battery and film for the meadows. You’ll find yourself climbing into a beautiful stretch of aspens, wildflowers, and grass with a thin trail guiding you though. Before this part, you’ve been climbing up the back of the mountain, this part is where you will circle around and start seeing little hints of the valley through the trees.
Success! The Peak
Squaw Peak is the perfect challenge, which makes it so popular. After the meadows and gratefully-rested thighs, the climb starts again one last time. You’ll probably hate it, as beautiful as it is, because you felt like you were almost there. Push through, it won’t be any harder than before. The last hill was worse and much much longer.
The peak will come upon you suddenly. Oak cover will turn into junipers and the trail will flatten out. Suddenly, the valley will open up in front of you like this:
(Warning: Spoilers)
That’s the Provo Temple at the bottom left and Utah Lake behind at the top. On peaks like these you can see why people call the area the Great Basin. You’ll see mountains all around you, above and below, with Provo, Orem, Springville, etc. beneath your feet.
For the inexperienced, a summit like this can be life changing. For the experienced, it’s a recharge, because nothing else compares.
While you’re admiring the valley, don’t forget to look around at these views, which are great in any season:
My last suggestion before you follow all this in reverse and make it down in half the time it took you to get up, would be to take a nap at the top. You deserve it.
Additional Reading:
Witt, Greg. 60 Hikes within 60 Miles: Salt Lake City Including Ogden, Provo, and the Uintas. Birmingham, AL: Menasha Ridge Press, 2019.
This book helped me verify a few details and I even learned some. I recommend it for anyone looking for good hikes in Northern Utah.
Have you ever made this hike? What other hikes in Utah would you like to learn about? Answer in the comments and I’ll do my best to photograph and document your requests.
